Tucked away on the outskirts of Klang town is a 45-year-old traditional Malay house that offers more than a glimpse into the country’s architectural heritage. Built on stilts and surrounded by a nostalgic kampung atmosphere, the lower portion of the house serves as a cosy eatery called Warung Cendol Wak Paad.
Customers can choose to sit at a table in the open grounds or in the kolong (space underneath the house), enjoying the breeze whilst savouring local delights, including mouthwatering cendol.
Located along Jalan Haji Musran in Kampung Rantau Panjang here, the eatery – which opened in 2021 – is run by 29-year-old Siti Zulaika Supaad. The heritage property housing the eatery is owned by Siti Zulaika’s family.
It draws customers not only from the Klang Valley but also from as far as Melaka and Johor, with some making the drive specifically to experience its old-world charm. It has also become a popular hangout for the younger generations, who come to unwind amid the tranquility of a village setting while getting a glimpse of an era before their time through the house’s collection of vintage decorations and furnishings.
“What I want to offer is an experience. While enjoying our cendol, customers can also experience the feeling of returning to their own kampung… the peaceful atmosphere here is something that’s difficult to find, especially for those living in the city,” she told Bernama when met at the eatery recently.
FATHER’S LEGACY
Reflecting on how she ventured into the cendol business, Siti Zulaika said she was inspired to revive the legacy of Cendol Wak Paad, founded by none other than her father Supaad Musran, 74. The father of seven had operated a cendol stall in front of a surau on Jalan Haji Musran for over 30 years before calling it quits in 2004 due to poor health.
“Then, during the COVID-19 pandemic, when I was in the midst of looking for a job, I thought about restarting the cendol business because my father had his own unique recipe for the dessert. It was part of our family legacy and I didn’t want Cendol Wak Paad to simply disappear,” she said.
Her father’s cendol had its fair share of fans back then.
“The uniqueness of Cendol Wak Paad lies in its rich, dark gula melaka (palm sugar) syrup,” explained Siti Zulaika. “It is made using my father’s original recipe, and cooked on the stove for an hour, which gives it a distinctive taste. We also make the green cendol jelly ourselves. I am a cendol lover and have tried it at other places, but none tastes quite like my father’s.”
In 2021, after mastering her father’s recipe, Siti Zulaika used RM1,000 in capital to set up her own stall at the same location where her father once operated his business.
The young entrepreneur, who is still single, said the idea of using the family house as the backdrop of their eatery came about after a few months of operating her stall.
“I wanted to offer something different,” said Siti Zulaika, who has a degree in heritage studies from Universiti Malaysia Kelantan.
“Moreover, my stall had limited space, leaving customers with little room to sit comfortably and enjoy their food. Besides, there are already many people selling cendol. I wanted customers to experience a different setting while enjoying their favourite dessert and that was when I thought of our family house.”
Asked why she opted for a classic concept for her eatery instead of the modern and hipster themes that are popular today, Siti Zulaika said she had always been drawn to things with a classic appeal.
To turn her vision into reality, she invested about RM20,000 and extended the space on the side of the house’s lower level to create a kitchen area.
She said the knowledge she gained while studying heritage at university had also been instrumental in bringing the eatery’s concept to life.
NOSTALGIC DECOR
Initially, she had some doubts about running an eatery at the family property because of its location in a relatively secluded area near a dead-end road. But Siti Zulaika remained confident that the concept would attract customers.
“I did wonder how customers would find this place but I believe that if we provide good service and offer something different, customers will seek us out,” she said.
Elaborating on the eatery’s decor, Siti Zulaika said every corner is adorned with vintage and traditional items to evoke a sense of nostalgia and bring the old-world charm of a Malay village to life.
Among the items on display are metal trays belonging to her mother and grandmother, which are hung on the walls of the house, adding sentimental and aesthetic value to the space.
“I also bought several antique and vintage items to complete the decor. I enjoy collecting old things such as rattan chairs, motorcycles and vintage batik fabrics.
“The eatery has also become a popular spot for customers to capture memories after enjoying their meals here,” she said, adding that she has retained the original design of the house, which was built using meranti wood, to preserve its heritage value and traditional Malay identity.
As for Warung Cendol Wak Paad’s menu, its star attraction is obviously cendol. Other items on the menu include ais kacang, laksa, curry noodles, mee bandung, nasi lemak and nasi ayam penyet.
For beverages, Siti Zulaika has also introduced several of her own creations, including cocktail jelly and longan jelly, to give customers more choices.
Open from 11.30 am to 5.30 pm from Tuesday to Sunday, Warung Cendol Wak Paad has also become a stopover for visitors from outside the area, including Singaporeans who are in town for work.
“I did not expect such an encouraging response and I admit there were many shortcomings when I first started. However, I have continued to improve the service based on feedback from customers,” said Siti Zulaika, who is now assisted by seven employees.
Meanwhile, Muhamad Qayum Muhamad Raif, 15, said he often visits Warung Cendol Wak Paad with his friends after school. His favourites include ABC (ais batu campur) and chicken porridge.
“I like this eatery’s kampung-style concept. It is fun to sit underneath the house in the kolong because it feels more relaxed. It is also close to my home, so I often come here to hang out with my friends,” he said.
Another customer Hanis Zahara Muhammad Zahir, 17, said she prefers spending time with friends at the traditional-themed eatery rather than at modern cafes.
“It is more peaceful and enjoyable here. It feels like sitting at home and having a meal with friends,” she said, adding that apart from cendol, she also likes the laksa served there.